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Lægge Gulve - Rappgo


Følgende beskrivelser og instruktioner er på engelsk


Rappgo presents the 5th generation of click-jointed flooring in our new RappLoc click system. This is the latest ingenious glue-free flooring system. The boards are laid one by one, in exactly the same way as when the tongues and grooves are glued, without having to connect the short ends together first. All you need for a perfect result is a saw and distance wedges.

Our laying instructions describe the process in detail. If one or more boards have to be replaced, the flooring boards are simply removed and new boards are laid in place again. It couldn't be simpler!


ALWAYS read the laying instructions that you get with the floor!


Lay the first board approx. 8 -10 mm from the wall (for a normal-sized room) with the tongue towards the wall. Insert distance wedges between the board and the wall. If the wall is crooked, draw the wall contours on the first board (diagram 6). Then saw the board to the drawn contours so that they follow the unevenness of the wall.

Remember that both technically and aesthetically, the floor will look better if the last board is wider than 50 mm. Therefore, always measure the width of the room before starting to lay the floor, to ensure that the last board is wider than 50 mm. If this is not the case, then saw the first board to achieve a balanced effect.




At the end of each row, turn the board around, as shown in the diagram so the groove side of the lock-strip is towards the wall and measure off.




The sawn board is then turned around again and laid in place with the sawn end at the end of the row.




If you have to saw more than 35 mm off the first or last boards, then the RappLoc tongue cannot be used at the end of the board. This has to be glued instead, as shown in the diagram. Use a weight during the period that the glue takes to set.




Start the next row with the sawn board. Lay the length of the board in position and slide the end of the next board tight in together before angling down the boards into final position. Hold the ends tightly together during the angling down phase. The end joints shouldn't be closer to each other than 500 mm. Insert distance edges at the end of the board. Row after row is done in the same way. It is important that the first two boards lie absolutely straight. Check this with a chalk line. 




The last board (and the first board too, if required) usually has to be sawn along its length. Lay this board over the next-to-last board, see the diagram, and draw the contours of the wall onto the board. The board is then sawn along the lines drawn on it. Remember that there must be a distance to the wall. (1.5 mm per metre of floor width). If you have to saw off more than 35 mm, the tongue in the end of the board cannot be used. The ends have to be glued instead.




If there is not enough room to angle in a board, under an architrave or radiator for example, then do as shown in the diagram. Use a knife or chisel to remove the locking strip on the lock-tongue. Do this on both the lengths and ends of the boards that are affected and glue the lock-tongue. Angle the board as shown in the diagram and draw it backwards into position.




To take the boards apart, do as shown in the diagram. Start from the left, sit on the subfloor (if possible), lift the row of boards and carefully hit the board adjacent to the longitudinal joint, so that the boards unlock. Thereafter, remove the boards by holding them completely parallel and then sliding them apart at the ends. If the boards are not held parallel, the ends can be damaged and be difficult to take apart.



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